The North Pennines: Landscape and Legend

Mill Force

Lower Teesdale and Greta valley

In this chapter, we explore the beautiful stretch of Teesdale between Barnard Castle and Middleton (although actually travelling downstream as far as Whorlton to include various features of interest). 'Barny' is of course the focal point for the lower valley and has much of interest, including the historic castle and Bowes Museum, as well as the splendid river scenery. Just a short distance downstream are the impressive ruins of Egglestone Abbey and grandiose Rokeby Hall, the latter famous for its link with Sir Walter Scott and other artistic figures. Here is the celebrated 'Meeting of the Waters', where the Greta meets the Tees, one of many local scenes painted by JMW Turner on his visits to the district. Another artist, John Sell Cotman, also painted locally, producing a partcularly fine watercolour representation of Greta Bridge.

Gaunless Mill

Following the Greta upstream we have the 'wild and fair' Brignall Banks, which Scott eulogised in his long poem entitled 'Rokeby'. Further up this valley is the village of Bowes, at the edge of the desolate Bowes Moor, where another literary link is made, this time with Charles Dickens and 'Nicholas Nickleby'. Amongst the natural features of interest found nearby is the unusual natural span of God's Bridge.

Between 'Barny' Castle and Middleton, there is more fine river scenery, together with a series of rather attractive villages: Cotherstone, Romaldkirk, Eggleston and Mickleton. Long side-valleys stretch to the west, including the tranquil dales of Baldersdale and Lunedale with their string of reservoir lakes. Baldersdale was the former home of the remarkable Hannah Hauxwell, and is surrounded by sweeping moors together with the cap rocks of Goldsborough and Shacklesborough. Similarly, Lunedale extends from the pastures of Laithkirk and Bowbank past the reservoirs up to 't' Big Country' of Mickle Fell and Lune Head. A landscape therefore of considerable variety and contrast.